Also, my fourth time out since I started surfing and my first time out on my very own board. My buddy found me a nice used 6’8” Rusty and I headed down to Manasquan after work.
The difference in boards was immense and a little overwhelming. First step: relearn how to paddle. So I gave myself a little pep talk, “come on, back arched, nose a couple inches out of the water, you got this, remember: body position like those shark attack videos.”
Okay, cool, got paddling a shortboard down after about 15 minutes. Let’s ride a few waves in on my stomach. Wow, it really is sensitive to forward/back body position and you really have to paddle your ass off to get into a wave. Alright, that was pretty easy, let’s get to my feet.
Pearled hard. Total marine yard-sale, hands, feet, board and leash all in various states of disorder all the way to the beach. I came up laughing like a maniac, and repeated this about 4 times. Finally, just before it got too dark to surf, I got to my feet and rode it out for a few moments.
Can’t wait to get out there again!
